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hs
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Posted
My briks are 1989 DMS ( or is it DSM) with the crossovers in the base stand under the speaker.
There are three distinc sections to the crossovers. the mid-range is connected on one side to the treble by large bare solid wire ( it looks like solder and is about that dimension) and the bass is connected on the other side of the mid-range in the same fashion.

I have 2x135s and will be adding a 250 enabling me to bi-wire the briks. I am not sure where to make the cut. Should the mid-range and treble be together, or should the bass remain coupled to the mid-range.

I can play around exchanging the 135s and 250, but I believe making the right cut is pretty important and can be screwed up and spoil the effect.

Harry
 
Posts: 217 | Registered: Mon 30 October 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Not sure what you're intending is that good an idea.

You can drive each of the two crossovers with a seperate amp (each crossover supplies one each of bass, mid and treble): to do this you wire the input connection to one of the crossovers to another of the pairs of sockets (they are both wired to the same ones normally). However, you should probably use the same type of amp for both feeds. Guess you could try it.

[Edit: Harry, having re-read your post more carefully (and Paul's below), I realise that I have mistaken your crossovers for the in-base ones! Sorry.]

[This message was edited by Patrick Dixon on Tue 28 September 2004 at 13:16.]
 
Posts: 1429 | Location: UK | Registered: Sat 30 December 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I would guess that splitting mid/treble from bass would be 'best'.

I think though that Linn weren't really into bi or tri-amping except as a staging post to Aktiv, but they are into bi or tri wiring.

Some people have swapped the large 4 Ohm crossover such as you have for a pair of 8 Ohm crossovers as still supplied by Falcon. This allows each speaker to be split into two 8 Ohm full range devices and in that case it makes loads of sense to biamp. Personally I'm not convinced about the old Falcon crossovers.

In your position I would be looking for a way to go active rather than bi or tri amp passively via the Linn crossover. But there's no harm in trying assuming you (or a friend) can resolder the links.

Paul
 
Posts: 2197 | Registered: Fri 31 August 2001Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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One word of caution - someone here had posted that when they tried to re-solder the connections back together on their "4 ohm" (external) crossovers, they couldn't get them to sound the same as before they were snipped.

cheers, Martin

E-mail:- MartinPayne (at) Dial.Pipex.com. Put "Naim" in the title.
 
Posts: 4700 | Location: England | Registered: Mon 31 July 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Unsolder rather than snip.

Paul
 
Posts: 2197 | Registered: Fri 31 August 2001Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul Ranson:
Personally I'm not convinced about the old Falcon crossovers.



Paul,

I don't know how the Falcon crossovers compare to the original Linn ones supplied with my Briks (other than I believe they were designed for Scanspeak tweeters instead of the Hiquphons I had at the time). However, I hated the 4 ohm crossovers on my speakers. They sapped all of the life and dynamics out of the system.

cheers, Martin

E-mail:- MartinPayne (at) Dial.Pipex.com. Put "Naim" in the title.
 
Posts: 4700 | Location: England | Registered: Mon 31 July 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
hs
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Thanks for comments guys.

Patrick
Of course I have mislead you all, not that it matters, but what I have are PMS not DMS speakers. However your comments zeroed in on my question. The sum of what has been said is that what I propose can be done, but its dicey.

Paul

Can anybody elaborate on what I should I expect if I can unsolder the connector as Paul suggested. and bi-amp. Paul you are assuming I will want to reconnect. Is there something more I should know.Will it sound like garbage.

My intention is (possibly was after reading your posts)to use a 250 to bi-amp, then add another and tri-amp then go active using the 250s. It seems that I might be heading off in the wrong direction.

Martin

I have nothing to compare to in knowing wether my 4ohm are sucking the life out of the speaker. One of the reasons i am increasing the power is that right now the speakers only seem to come alive around 9 oclock. My think was that the speaker needed more power. Is this similar too or different than what you mean.

Well the fox is in the chicken coop as I have committed to purchasing the 250, speaker wire etc.

Harry
 
Posts: 217 | Registered: Mon 30 October 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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My lack of conviction about the Falcon jobs really relates to their age. Perhaps with some new capacitors? Certainly the later 8 Ohm crossovers seem rather better made and have more visually appealing components.

Paul
 
Posts: 2197 | Registered: Fri 31 August 2001Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul Ranson:
My lack of conviction about the Falcon jobs really relates to their age.



Paul,

indeed, I believe that Scanspeak tweeters were only used on very early briks, so these must be pretty old items.

cheers, Martin

E-mail:- MartinPayne (at) Dial.Pipex.com. Put "Naim" in the title.
 
Posts: 4700 | Location: England | Registered: Mon 31 July 2000Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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