Since the arrival of my new 5-series setup, I decided to go from bi-wire to single wire, and use this technique.

Tony did do a line drawing showing how this was done, and I thought I'd add a couple of pictures I took whilst fitting mine.

I found the best way to get the spacing correct was to fit the first set of plugs in the normal way, then plug those into the back of the 'speaker and make a pencil mark in line with the second set of sockets, in order to remove the insulation in the correct place (see Stage-1.jpg).

When the second set of plugs have been placed over the cable, but not yet soldered, plug them back into the speakers to ensure they fit, carefully unplug and solder in place.

It's a great idea, that works superbly, unfortunately the Naim covers do not fit, as Linn, in their infinite wisdom, decided not to use the standard 19mm (3/4") spacing that the rest of the world uses .

Go here for the pics: -

NACA5 / Kan wiring

Clicking on each image will give a larger view.

Andy.

Andrew L. Weekes
alweekes@audiophile.com

The big question here is "how do you take out the plugs?". I guess that you need to use pliers and take the top ones out first. Is this a difficult job?

Andrew

P.S. Good pics, thanks.

Andrew Randle
2B || !2B;
4 ^ = ?;

quote:

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The big question here is "how do you take out the plugs?"

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Andrew,

The plugs come out easily, if you place your fingers behind the NACA5 that connects the two plugs, then lever away from the back of the speaker.

This works both before and after soldering, since the plugs are a tight fit to the NACA5. I found that you need to gently squeeze the cable after the insulation is removed for the second set of plugs, they can then be fitted over the cable reasonably easily.

Andy.

Andrew L. Weekes
alweekes@audiophile.com

quote:

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Pardon my ignorance, but is there any reason why one can’t by-pass the Kan II’s second pair of input sockets by cutting the wires that connect to them internally, and soldering them to the first pair of sockets?

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Sproggle,

As you will see from the 'Help with sick Kan' thread, dismantling Kans is not a job for the faint hearted, and can easily result in cabinet damage.

Believe me soldering two sets of plugs is a LOT easier

Andy.

Andrew L. Weekes
alweekes@audiophile.com

Phil

quote:

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It's a great idea, that works superbly, unfortunately the Naim covers do not fit, as Linn, in their infinite wisdom, decided not to use the standard 19mm (3/4") spacing that the rest of the world uses

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It's just as well. Your system will sounded better with the Naim covers removed. Add this to Arie's free tweaks thread.

Joe

I still have the covers fitted at the amp end - I'll try it to see if I detect a difference.

I assume that Naim primarily recommend their use from a safety perspective (it stops people / children plugging 4mm sockets into the mains outlet). To meet stricter European rules, they have to insist on their use, which is why some companies have moved away from 4mm sockets.

Andy.

Andrew L. Weekes
alweekes@audiophile.com

I have a kairn/ 3LK100 active kaber system and I feel like in a dead-end, since the only coherent way of upgrading (in the Linn logic) consists in buying 3 klouts (£7200!!) which I cannot afford before 20 years or more (when I am deaf!!)

I remember having listened to kan (probably MK1 and II) at the end of a LP12/ittok/troika 32.5/HC/250 and found them great, may be a little thin compared to kabers.

one possibility to me could be to replace my kabers by kan (assuming I can find 1988 kans on the market), and my 3LK100 by a better amp (klout or 250)... anyone having owned or carefully compared kabers and kans?

(source is Lingo/cirkus/ekos/klyde LP12)

regards

JChristophe

I felt my shift from Kan to Kabers like 90 % downgrade and 10% upgrade (max).
No, you can’t set procentage on these thing, only a home demo can settle it.

I’ve driven Kabers with Naim 250 and Linn LK100, also tried Klout, but not on Kabers.
Kabers are for me all too pleasant and slow – overwarm, but goes a bit deeper in bas than a Kan. Kan’s are much more fun and realistic sounding, more quick etc. Both speakers are easy to place and get function in smaller rooms – Kan’s do wonders coupling their bas notes to difficult rooms.
If they sound thin it could proably be source problem.

I also had problems with my Klyde at that time – actually it never get me holded to my chair for very long time. –I sold it, but it could also be the cause that I downgraded to Kaber’s –a stupidity I would say – cost me a lot of trouble and money, so be warned.

I will suggest you sell the Kairn/LK100 combo and get whatever Naim combo that could pay, then it shouldn’t be that expensive having both Kan and Kabers standing besides...

Good luck