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Is this combination sacreligious, idiotic, nonsensical, or is it alright, superb, so-so?? Reason for asking is that a used LP12 allegedly Val/Nirv with RB300 is coming up in my locale.
The dealer says it won't be ready for a few weeks, but says the RB works quite well with the LP12. Certainly the price here in Australia is quite acceptable [slightly less than a new P3 or about 1/2 price of P25], particularly given the paucity of alternatives. He's given me first option on it, once the PSU has been repaired. He also offered to set it up at home for me. Clearly it's not an Ittock or ARO, but it presumably makes a good basis for future upgrades. It would be replacing a Planar 3/RB300. Any views? [This message was edited by richard goldsmith on TUESDAY 05 December 2000 at 05:02.] |
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Richard
I bought a LP12/Val/Nirv with a Rega RB300 in 1985 and the combination worked very well. The Ittok was an upgrade I did later but the likes of the Akito was no better. The only problem I had with the Rega was the arm lift which rested on the armboard, making it difficult to use. I think that the Rega RB300 is one of those products that performs much better than you would expect given it's price. Brian |
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Richard
take a look at OriginLive modified Rega Arms vs. Ekos/Aro, etc. thread, on which much of this was recently discussed. IMHO you would need to ensure the deck in question had the later laminated armboard, and the glued subchassis. Rico - musichead |
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Senior Member |
Also, ensure the bearings on arm and table are good.
I listened to a black LP12/Valhalla/RB300 vs. a rosewood LP12/Valhalla/Akito, when I bought my LP12 in 1992. The Akito version was $300 more than the Rega version. Now, the RB300 version pissed all over an Axis, but the Akito version pissed all over the RB300. This was in no way a scientific test. Rather it was a simple comparison between 2 decks that were available simultaneously. But the Akito version was MUCH better. Given the high cost of gear in Oz and the low cost of gear in the US and GB, have you considered taking a risk and buying via the 'web? LP12/Valhalla/Ittoks are running under $1100 US. How does that compare to Oz? Also, the new P3s are supposed to be really good. Regards. Phil Phil |
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Richard,
That LP12 you've been offered is CHEAP. If it is good condition, you should probably snap it up, since reasonable condition LP12s tend to start at about A$1200 (US$700 or GBP450, for those interested) and go a lot higher (although this is generally with a Linn arm). The usual price seems to be around $1600. You could then look out for a better arm, the only problem being that second hand Ittocks rarely come up in Australia (in fact I can't recall ever seeing one). When I traded my Ekos I for an Aro a few years ago (before going back to an Ekos II), the dealer sold it within days. Incidentally, there is an LP12/Ittock/Karma in the current Sydney Trading Post (it is on the web) for $2150 - probably means he wants $2000 or a bit less. If you're prepared to pay a bit more for a TT with a good arm and cartridge, you might consider this one, since you'd never need to upgrade it (if you didn't want to). (I was thinking of making an offer for this myself.) Ross |
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Ross,
Funnily enough I heard of an identical combination for sale in Melbourne about 4 months ago, but I procrastinated due to the distance (because I wanted to see it) and the guy put it on E-bay. He was asking $1500 and got about that on ebay anyway. It also came with an esoteric step-up tranny, but that's another matter altogether! The job in Sydney is probably OK too, but outside my $$ reach at the moment, which is why the one with the RB300 seems like a good basis for the time being, even if it ain't the last word in Linns. I just hope the shop sticks to its word and gives me first dibs. |
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Richard,
An "esoteric step-up tranny" could mean one of a number of things to someone from Sydney. Ross |
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Ross,
I'm certain that in parts of Darlinghurst, it has a very specific meaning, and it probably comes made to order as one requests. I believe this one was actually a Mitchell Cotter, as opposed to, say, an Oxford St Belle. Of course in Adelaide, it probably has some simple religious connotation, but I wouldn't know... |
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Oh that reminds me, I went to Sydney to buy my LP12 some years ago. Well at least, I was heading over for a holiday, and a mutual friend had one for sale that was in very good nick... I ended up having a very entertaining evening in St Ives (I think it was called), and left not only with an LP12, but with a record collection to boot! Well-travelled t/t, it was bought in London years before. To close this tale, luckily the check-in lady recognised a truely sad vinyl-laden git, and checked me on with no excess baggage. Still, an esoteric tranny might have tipped the scales - as it was, I was content with Valhalla, Ittok, and a well-worn Asak.
Rico - musichead |
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Senior Member |
The Cotter used to be EXTREMELY well thought of by J. Gordon Holt, founder of Stereophile (and no Atkinson).
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The RB300 works just fine on the LP12.
Ok, its no Ekos/Aro but what do you expect for £200 ? If you have beem offered an LP12/RB300 for the price of a P3 you should buy it NOW before someone else spots it. Rob. |
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Rob,
I would if I could, but the dealer says it will take a few weeks before the PSU is fixed. I just hope this one comes off, unfortunately I've been led down the proverbial path B4 and promises amount to nought. However, he assures me I have first pick. Any thoughts on transferring the Ortofon MC15/2 from the Rega 3 to the LP12, or should I go upwards? |
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Senior Member |
This response relates strictly to proper set-up, not sound quality (though I've found a correctly set-up RB-300 is only bettered by a 900, Aro, or Ekos).
Several points must be adhered to; 1)Newer LP-12s must have right-side back corner brace cut-out or filed to accomodate arm. 2)You MUST use supplied Rega alignment protractor to drill hole in armboard.(Linn begrudgingly make them pre-drilled). 3)the P-clip must be modified to a smaller size because the RB's cable is smaller. 4)Grounding;this is a tricky one depending on your vintage LP-12, country, and pre-amp ground. In the US, disconnect power-supply ground of AC if using Valhalla or Basik, unscrew base of RB-300 (very small hex screw) and carefully unsolder or cut black wire from green wire (RB-300 armtubes are grounded to the right channel ground) attach arm's black wire to long black wire connected to kite(LP-12 subchasis).You may need to make an extension. This is for Naim pre-amps only!! 5)Attach counterweight and cartridge with previously mentioned protractor before attempting to balance and level table. Be aware (are you reading this Vuk) that Rega make three different size counterweights and they are the most expensive part of the arm so get the right one first, depending on your cartridge mass.The way to get the most out of the arm is to get the counterweight as close to the pivit points as possible and use the spring adjust to compensate the remainder, not to 100% statically balance the arm. (though that method is close to the way it ends up with the supplied counterweight and using a RB-100, Bias, or Elys) Same goes for the 250 and 900. In fact, the RB-250 once came with a two-piece weight. 6)Now the part only a trained Linn dealer should do: leveling the subchassis and adjusting springs and at the same time adjusting P-clip. 7)Fine adjust tracking force and anti-skate by ear, remember the bias is adjusted by magnet. 8)Depending on your fancy, remove cueing device for best sound, or adjust lift with screw on side of mechanism (are you reading Brian). 9)Install BNCs, attach ground wire to pre-amp, connect arm leads (and separate left and right channel of lead by gently tearing apart, a FREE mod which also works on all Linn tonearm cables), plug into wall, and away you go. NEVER remove bottom of LP-12 with Valhalla plugged-in, doing so may result in the shock of your life. If you or your Linn/Rega dealer do not understand these directions 100%, you will end up with a good value for money system. If you do adhere to it, your mind will be blown with outragously good performance!!! I have set-up dozens of this combo (learned most of it from Roy Gandy) and have personally used the Rega carts and top-of-the-line Linn MCs with excellent results. For info on how to drill for mounting a Linn MC or how to properly mod an RB-300 or 250 (according to the pistachio man) that's for another thread (and only for the truly obsessed) |
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quote:
OK, this may work in some circumstances, but I'm told that it makes the cable much more sensitive to RF. Naim systems are pretty susceptible to this problem. cheers, Martin |
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